2007 Editorial Review
Why journey to a 32-seat boîte in a Newmarket strip mall? To sample sushi master Jyo Gao’s impeccable fare. Though noodle soups, deep-fried pork cutlets, etc., are available, the cognoscenti opt for the omakase tasting menu ($50) founded on classic Japanese principles. Dinner might begin with cubes of ruby tuna tartare mixed with avocado and crowned with sweet flying-fish roe and raw quail egg; or a troika of broiled beef wrapped around honey root, house-smoked Norwegian mackerel and moist broiled salmon topped with spicy mayo. Gao entrances with pâté of monkfish liver—Japanese foie gras. House-brewed soy anoints mild raw East Coast oysters and expertly cut, melt-in-the mouth sashimi and sushi. Unctuous and sweet, broiled white Nova Scotian sea bass excels, while flavour-packed dashi broth floats bay scallops, bluefin tuna and tofu. Superb maki: shrimp and avocado topped with raw salmon, and spicy tuna with avocado. In contrast, the ice-cream-only dessert carte is pedestrian. Gracious but inattentive servers. Mains $20–$28.