2010 Editorial review
Drive far enough up the 404 and you’ll discover two things: not only are there more stars in the sky, but there’s also this one tucked in a poky strip plaza. Master sushi chef Jyo Gao has been slicing meltingly soft fish in this cozy room for nine years, yet he’s as passionate about ingredients, tradition, nutrition (don’t even get him started on vegetarianism) and the art of sushi as a newbie. (Trust us, you’ll be star-struck, too.) The thick menu has pages and pages dedicated to an impressive selection of sakes, as well as sashimi, maki rolls, noodles and, for the adventurous, omakase ($55). Flavours are delicate, texture is paramount, and the presentation consistently artful. A tiny pickled wild mountain peach arrives alongside tuna, smoked mackerel, and burdock root wrapped in beef. Pork gyoza are crispy and light as air. A green apple–soy milk custard is the perfect finish. Reverential service. Mains $20–$28.
2007 Editorial Review
Why journey to a 32-seat boîte in a Newmarket strip mall? To sample sushi master Jyo Gao’s impeccable fare. Though noodle soups, deep-fried pork cutlets, etc., are available, the cognoscenti opt for the omakase tasting menu ($50) founded on classic Japanese principles. Dinner might begin with cubes of ruby tuna tartare mixed with avocado and crowned with sweet flying-fish roe and raw quail egg; or a troika of broiled beef wrapped around honey root, house-smoked Norwegian mackerel and moist broiled salmon topped with spicy mayo. Gao entrances with pâté of monkfish liver—Japanese foie gras. House-brewed soy anoints mild raw East Coast oysters and expertly cut, melt-in-the mouth sashimi and sushi. Unctuous and sweet, broiled white Nova Scotian sea bass excels, while flavour-packed dashi broth floats bay scallops, bluefin tuna and tofu. Superb maki: shrimp and avocado topped with raw salmon, and spicy tuna with avocado. In contrast, the ice-cream-only dessert carte is pedestrian. Gracious but inattentive servers. Mains $20–$28.
